Cielo is the restaurant at the new Four Seasons Hotel downtown. Places like this are always tough for me because of the expectations. When the name "Four Seasons" is attached to your restaurant, you'd better be good. No, better than good. Perfect. Unfortunately meeting such expectations is often near impossible.

Note, however, that I use the words "near impossible." That's because it can be done. That's something Cielo proved last night.

Walking in to the bar area, you get an immediate Manhattan feel with a view that is uniquely St. Louis. The whole set up is located on the eighth floor of the Four Seasons with floor to ceiling windows and an expansive patio/reflecting pool/swimming pool area that overlooks the Arch grounds. The night was beautiful and the view was breathtaking. I can't imagine a better spot to have a drink outside in all of St. Louis.

The restaurant itself has the same floor to ceiling views, and a chic, modern decor, reminiscent of New York City's Le Parker Meridian. (Probably my favorite hotel in all the world!)

The service was out of site. Our waiter, Greg, was asked to make a wine recommendation for the group. He returned with one of the best Pinot Noir's that I've ever tasted! (I'm no expert, but other, more well versed wine drinkers at the table agreed.) For the record, it's a 2005 Hartford Court Land's Edge.

Throughout the night, every time Greg made a recommendation, it wasn't just on the money, it was hit right out of the park.

For dinner I had the Veal Saltimbocca. I can't think of enough adjectives for "phenomenal" to put in this space, but it was absolutely perfect. The cut of meat was excellent. It was cooked just where it needed to be. (Veal can easily become shoe leather if over done. I've seen it happen in restaurants carrying similar expectations!) The flavor had the hint of wine and saltiness that I was looking for without either being overwhelming. Even the sides, poached asparagus and fingerling potatoes, were bursting with flavor. My plate was all but licked clean by the time the table was bussed.

Other dishes I got a taste of (by raiding my neighbor's plates) were the Lobster Rosoto. Rosoto is one of those dishes that looks like it should be easy to make, but is much easier to screw up. Not in this case. Again, out of sight! The lamb chop was cooked to a perfect medium rare temperature, and also melted in your mouth.

In the case of all the entrees, I was particularly pleased with the fact that there was plenty of food on the plate! This may sound a little unsophisticated, but nothing makes me madder than going into a high end restaurant, dropping a ton of money, and being served an entree so small that I'm hitting a drive through on the way home.

Cielo is not an inexpensive affair. A large number of the main course selections run over thirty dollars. But in this case, "you get what you pay for" applies.

For most of us, Cielo will not be a monthly trip, but for those special occasions when you really want to do things right, St. Louis has a new fine dining front runner. There may be a few of spots in town that are about as good (just a few) but for my money, you'll find nothing markedly better.